Epicurean Adventure in the Wine Country

By Robert E. Hughes    

 

             One might assume that, as a San Francisco Bay Area native, perhaps I have had my fill of the Wine Country.  Surprisingly, I have not been there in many years, likely because it was in my proverbial backyard.  So it was with much elation that I jumped at the opportunity to celebrate a dear friend’s wedding in California’s Napa Valley, one of the most celebrated viticultural regions of America, and arguably the world.  It proved to be a memorable weekend filled with great adventures, far-flung friends brought together, wonderful food, and choice wines flowing like meandering streams through the experience.

             Apart from the wedding itself, one of the highlights of the weekend was dining at Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford, a twenty-minute drive east of Calistoga.  Our party of ten consisted of individuals from several points on the globe, the groom and bride-to-be hailing from Paris, family from Quebec and Montreal, friends from Hong Kong, Hamburg and Los Angeles, and a sole representative of the former Island Nation in the middle of the Pacific—yours truly.  Most were meeting for the first time and although introductions were made in English, the evening became a swirling mixture of French, English and German with a dash of Mandarin.  Just as the wine opened up, so did the dark recesses of my brain that house the cornucopia of foreign vocabulary and grammatical syntax.  Yes, as they say, in vino veritas, and very much so that evening.

             While the company was exciting and diverse, much of the discussion revolved around the outstanding meal and how the various dishes interacted with the exceptional wines we chose.  We were most fortunate that one of the gentlemen from Hong Kong assumed the mantle of patron for the evening and served as our liaison with the sommeliers, selecting a variety of local wines, some of which would ordinarily be beyond my means.  It was quite a treat.

 

One of the stunning vineyard views from Napa

                   The meal began with an amuse-bouche shooter of cool corn chowder, provided by the chef especially for the bridal party.  It was a delightful beginning, although my particular penchant for Kahuku corn meant I was a bit more critical (or perhaps spoiled) than the others.  This was enjoyed along with a 2000 Littorai Chardonnay Mays Canyon from the Russian River Valley in western Sonoma County.  It was extremely full-bodied and complex but maintained an even texture with a remarkably clean finish.  The slightly oaken, brassy white literally (or should I say littorally?) sang upon my palate.  I often steer away from chardonnay having been frequently disappointed in the past.  This, however, was like a musical phrase, or rondo, which repeated with each sip—a bold beginning unfolding layers of apricot and pear and various spices with a distinct finish.  I would return to this wine at several points in the evening.

             For my first course I was drawn to the foie gras, which was served with a peach crepe.  The seared organ’s richness worked well with the sweet succulence offered by the fresh, ripe peach.  It had been awhile since I had tasted real-deal foie gras and it was heavenly.  The 2002 Willem Selyem Chardonnay, also from the Russian River Valley, with which it was paired, was very nice but could not compete with the rich flavors of the dish. This wine was much lighter in color and texture and I might have guessed it was a sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio if had not known otherwise.  It, too, had a clean finish much to my liking, but the texture was softer and not particularly complex.  The foie gras overwhelmed it entirely and I was most pleased that there was still Littorai on the table.  Its robust flavor held its own with the liver.

 

Some trellised grapes in Napa

                 My second course was an heirloom tomato risotto.  I was first introduced to heirloom tomatoes on a trip to the Napa Valley many years ago and I was stunned by their sweetness, richness of flavors and textures, and variety of colors.  This risotto was no disappointment with flashes of red to blood orange and green to aubergine.  Even though the heirloom tomato was the hero of this dish, tucked within were succulent surprises of sautéed shrimp adding greater texture and richness without competing for top billing.

             Towards the close of the second course, an additional wine was introduced to the repast, the Sea Smoke ‘Ten’ Pinot Noir from Santa Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County.  We sampled the 2005 and 2006 side by side.  While only one year apart in age, the lighter and “younger” texture of the 2006 was quite evident.  The 2005 Pinot offered an intense start with a complex mingling of fruity aromas with cherry being quite dominant, but mellowed to a smooth but distinct finish.  By contrast the 2006 was less full-bodied and intense, slightly more peppery with a metallic earthiness much more prominent.  However, the finish was quite similar.  My preference was immediately for the 2005, but found the lighter-bodied 2006 Pinot better suited to the risotto.  Notably, the risotto was also well paired with the Willem Selyem Chardonnay, the less weighty white lending itself well to the flavors of the creamy carb dish.

Stunning views are easy to find at Auberge du Soleil

Every seat is a great one.

                 My main course consisted of a triplet of bacon wrapped veal medallions, each paired with a foie gras raviolo, served upon English peas and carrots with a red wine reduction.  The decadence of this dish is almost beyond description.  The veal was cooked to perfection, extremely juicy and became only more melt-in-your-mouth with the smoky and peppery bacon cloak.  Initially I feared that the foie gras might be reaching overkill for the dish or even redundant for the meal, but nothing could be further.  The ravioli were delicious by themselves but also enhanced each bite of veal.  In a way, the recollection of the meal’s beginnings as the second tier flavor was a pleasant echo and only intensified the climax of the meal.

             The wine chosen to grace the main course was a 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Chappellet “Pritchard Hill” from the Napa Valley.  An excellent choice this was, also my favorite wine of the evening.  It was incredibly full-bodied and with a complexity of flavors that balanced extremely well between layers both sweet and bitter including cassis and cocoa and juniper.  For my palate, it was the second rondo of the evening.  The whole table was delighted with it and relished this wine throughout the last course.  So much so that we continued with a second bottle through dessert.

             I was pretty well sated by the time dessert was offered, but the menu should not be overlooked.  Nowhere to be found was the gratuitous cheesecake or warm chocolate cake, tiramisu, or some type of tart.  Instead I discovered interesting amalgamations of exotic and seasonal fruits and berries with unexpected partners, such as rhubarb and sesame, chocolate and tarragon, cherries and pistachio—each dish lending itself to a wide range of wine pairings.  I opted for the roasted figs and goat cheese with a port wine reduction.  At the time, it seemed that figs were having a culinary moment and were peppered throughout the menu, so it seemed fitting that at least one of my choices include the celebrated fruit.  This was the perfect choice, just the right balance of sweet and savory, slightly salty.  And although the cabernet was perhaps a tad weighty, it complemented the dish very well in texture and flavor. This meal can best be described as one of the finest dining experiences I have had in a long time.  If I have any regrets, it would be that we dined late and the sun had already set by the time we had arrived.  I am told that the expansive view from the restaurant over the valley below is stunning and that tables on the lanai are among the most sought after in the Wine Country.  So if you’re not heading to Munich for Oktoberfest, now is an excellent time to experience Napa Valley and all it has to offer—warmest of days and crisp nights with hints of autumn, or possibly warmest of nights if the late blooming Bay Area summer strives to make a final stand.  While you’re there, I heartily recommend availing yourself of an evening at Auberge du Soleil.